Greyhound Handicapping – Quality VS Quantity

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So far this week, I’ve only had one winner out of three plays. It was a spot play in the 5th race at Mardis Gras on Saturday afternoon, the 7th. It was the only dog I played on that program and I played it to win and place. And you’re probably asking yourself why I’m telling you about one win.

Well, when Clone Me crossed the finish line first, she was at odds of 34.70. As a matter of fact, she paid $71.40 to win and $82.80 to place. The quinella, which I didn’t play, was $83.80. I haven’t played anything else since then, and I may not play another thing for another week, if I don’t see another good spot play like Clone Me.

This is the reason I don’t enter tournaments or play every day. I used to play several times a week, but then I began to play more and more spot plays. Eventually, I realized that they don’t come along every day. At that point, I had to make a decision. Did I want to play quantity or quality?

Did I want to handicap almost every race on the program and force myself to find a pick? Or did I want to be super selective and hold out for the longshots that pay high prices when they come in? It’s a decision that every handicapper has to make sooner or later. It comes down to your handicapping style, your bankroll, and your patience.

I sit with people who bet almost every race and they win enough to go home with a profit on most programs. They love the action and they’d die from boredom if they bet the rare longshot like I do. And that’s okay. They may make more money than I do over the long run.  I don’t know. They seem happy with their results and I’m happy with mine, and I guess that’s all that matters.

Getting back to Clone Me, and the reason I played a dog who had come in 7th by 9 lengths in its last race… Well, for one thing, she was in the money in 3 out of her 6 races at MG with one win and two places. She had won her next to last race. And in the races where she didn’t come in, she had run into trouble, she didn’t lose for lack of trying.

And the biggest reason I bet this longshot is because she had done something in her last race that none of the other dogs in the race had done in their last race. It’s something that 99% of handicappers wouldn’t consider significant, but I’ve learned that it’s often a sign that a longshot is a good bet, as long as they have at least a couple of other things going for them. Can you figure out what it is? I’ll give you a hint, it happened early in the race.

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Greyhound Handicapping Systems
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Posted in greyhound handicapping, greyhound handicapping systems | Tagged | 6 Comments

Greyhound Handicapping – A Completely Different Approach

New Book on Kindle and in Paperback! Eb's Best Greyhound Handicapping Writing

Are you like most people who go to the dog track? Do you win a little only to lose it back so that you feel like you’re just winning and losing the same money over and over? It’s happened to all of us at one time or another. Sometimes, to break this cycle, you have to do something really radical. If you’re ready to shake up your handicapping, maybe you’d like to try this approach that I use when I get stale or hit a losing streak.

The first thing I do is look back over my records to make sure that I haven’t missed anything. Am I winning on Win bets and losing on exotics, for instance? If that’s the case, then the first thing I do is switch to ONLY making the bets that I have a positive ROI on. If it’s not true – if I’m winning money, only to lose it on all my bets, then I change my routine completely.

Instead of going over my program and handicapping every race, I download several track programs from www.trackinfo.com and only handicap one grade. For me, Maiden races seem to be the easiest to handicap, so that’s what I play at each track. Of course, I don’t just blindly play every maiden race on every program. I handicap them all and then play the ones where I feel there’s a good dog to play. (For you, route races in the top grade might be better to handicap. Just choose whatever you feel that you can handicap best.)

I play a dog to win, or two dogs to win if the odds are right and I feel like each one has a good shot at winning. For maiden races, I look at speed, the kennel’s record with puppies and, probably most importantly, post position. Older dogs can often overcome poor post position, but with younger dogs, post position can often be the biggest influence on performance. I like to play dogs who break in the 8 box, or dogs who get out early and run the inside in the 1 box.

One way to pick a grade or type of race to play is to look back at how you’ve done in each grade or distance. If you find that you have a positive rate of return in dashes, the 301 yard races, why not just play dashes for a while? If you do better playing quinielas in Grade C, play them for a while and drop the other grades. If you hit the daily double often enough to make a profit on it, just play that, but play it at more than one track.

Focusing  on only one grade and/or distance can sharpen your handicapping skills. There’s something about just concentrating on one thing at a time that helps you see things that you miss when you’re trying to handicap several different grades of races at different distances. After you’ve done this for a few performances, you can go back to your usual method of handicapping, but with a fresh outlook and – we hope – with better success at holding onto the money you win.

 

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Greyhound Handicapping Systems
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On Kindle: Bill Peterson's Best Horse Racing Writing
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